CUSCO: The Navel of the World (tambien en Español)

Cusco: The Past and the Present outline this beautiful city

Cusco, the city known as “the navel of the world” during the times when the Inca Empire controlled most of South America, is unquestionably a beautiful city. It is charctarized by a facinating combination of ancient Inca architecture with the influence and abruptness of modernity. You can see the evidence of the conquest in all of its angles: two worlds colliding into one unique colorful and aesthetically pleasing city of smooth stones, narrow streets and with homes with pathways and wooden doors.

The churches, located in every eight block or so (and we are not exaggerating) maintain alive the memory of the spanish conquest, given that the immense foundations that support its elaborate murals and glass art is constructed of stones from the Incaic times; and the streets surrounding these churches are composed of narrow sidewalks whose width is measured at no more than half a meter. Cusco´s city streets are decorated with European style balconies hanging abouve wooden doors whose beauty and solidity does not diminish in the face of strong winds and pouring rain. While walking through the city streets one is struck by the over encompassing sensation of being transported into the distant past. The juxstposition of what once was and what will soon come to pass has been etched permanently into the the life and heart of this spirited town; a town that has burnt into its memory a blood-filled past yet continues to believe in a power superior to them, a power that unlike the lives of mere mortals, will never cease to exist.

The bright flag with seven different colors is proudly displayed all over the city and its statures, high above rooftops that assimilate the color of wet earth, on busy market corners, and in many of the local hostels.

“Is this the flag of the LGBT community?” asked one of the many thousands of turists walking through Cusco´s narrow cuty streets.

“Think again! This flag became Cusco´s official flag in 1978; plus, it is utilized by the original Andean communities of this region,” answered Malinche with her sultry know-it-all tone.

“But yes, in fact, the rainbow flag was also introduced in California during the 1970´s by the artist Gilber Baker as a symol of gay and lesbian pride. But there is a significant difference betwwen what it means to be a native of the Andean culture and what it means to express pride over sexual diversity. But without a doubt, co-existence is an inevitable when we are dealing with the complex subjects of identity and the struggle for rights and representation,” says Malinche, as she looks towards the sky but is interrupted by the big bright red hat she habitually wears.

“What would happen if there is a big march in which Andean folks, in particular Cusqueñas/os and the LGBT community unite to protest and march for their rights simultaneously?,” asks Malinche with a tone that seemed like she was really just thinking out loud.

“We dont know Malinche,” we responded, “But if that were to occur, there would be a parading sense of Pride in its most visible and powerful form that is for sure!,” we responded, hardly able to contain our laughter.

Cusco became our comfortable little nest for more or less two weekss (not counting our forray into Macupicchu). We allowed this city to bewitch us with its its soothing tranquility that was not defeated by the constant hustle and bustle movements along its maze like streets and invisible mortar. From the early hours of the morning untill the clock strucks midnight, the great numbers of residents and visitors never seem to stop and rest, while the local stores, restaurants, and bussinesses seem to follow the same schedule. We were fortunate enough to enjoy the company of wonderful “patas” (the local word for friends/sisters/homies) whom we met throughout our pleasent stay in Cusco. We took thousands of pictures of the city streets, faces, corners, of this and that womyn, ones we saw who never saw us, and of the ones who gifted us with unforgettable moments.

And here is our usual run-on paragraph of Cusco, which needs to be read only after you have inhaled deeply, and prepare to exhale slowly as you allow your eyes and these words to accompany your imagination through this journey:

City small volkswagon buses overflowing with 18 people stuffed in like sardines; the Market of Wanchaq and its vibrant colors; plagirized movies; the Molino as the local black market; Eating 1 kilo of fresh figs a day; Ivonne´s apartment as our little nest, Stood out 3 times in one day (YES 3 times!); Phone calls form the local phone-box parlors; Hours upon hours of internet resulting in headaches; Ceviche made of Pejerrey fish (a Peruvian delicacy); An actual bathtub (thank you Paty!); Womyn selling sweet potatoes on Garcilaso Avenue; Interviews; real spicy rocoto (the peruvian famous chile peppers); Antu cooking while the parokeet screams in the background; Chico, the street smart dog running behind Patty´s VW; Two portion Lukuma icecream; Dancing till sunrise; Working 13 hours straight; Taking more pictures; Preparing Mexican food; walking for miles; Alpaca scarves; Womyn selling tamales for 60 centimos (20 cents); The main square plaza filled with womyn selling scarves and dolls; Full moon; a visit to a rural school in Coya with Ligia; and a-lot-of conversations-smiles-and-laughing out loud-in-a-lunch-dinner-gathering-of-six-strong-beautiful-femenist-who-do-not-fear-in-the-power-of-dreaming!

AND These are some of the womyn MUCOV met in Cusco:

As you allready know, our work and dedication to MUCOV never ceases to bring us to some unforgettable conversations with womyn who have plenty to share about themselves and their lives. Here is a short summary of these necessary and inspiring dialouges, ones that help teach us about the vast reality and the experiences of other sisters.

Julia Beatriz Paliza: A strong, independent and successful womyn with a past that has taught her

to keep ahead, keep fighting as a single mother who started her own tourist agency; a survivor who did not give up in face of either loneliness or depression. Between laughter and tears, Julia told us of her difficult past, in which all of her family was dispossed of their home and land property after the Peruvian agrarian reform in the 60´s; she recounted her experiences of living in the Peruvian jungle with her then police officer husband in red zone (considered dangerous becasue of armed conflict) and her being a witness to multiple injustices, police abuse, corruption and human right violations against innocent people. She had to move to Cusco and start a new life from Zero, supporting her children alone by any means possible after seperating from her husband without having any help available from her family. Julia continued to share with us about her health problems, about her knee surgery and her refusal to use a walker becasue of her belief that the power to walk on her own haa always kept her strong and firm. Presently, Julia is looking to better her buisness and to wants to become a better mother for her children, who support her as much as they challenge her. And often, the only option left for Julia is to laugh out loud in the face of all the critical situation that she has to confront in her everyday as a womyn.

Francisca and Beatriz Huachaca: Francisca is a strong womyn, filled with sadness and pain. She has been challenged by life and a plethora of harsh circumstances. At the age of 46, she tells us of the constant care she keeps over her daughter Beatriz, who herself has experiencedmuch pain and suffering in her short 10 years of life. Recently, Francisca had to burry her 16 year old son, who died under unexpected circumstances; She shared with us her pain and sense of impotence in the face of this tragedy. Francisca had to forge ahead as a widow and a mother of 5 without any stable financial resources, without her own property or land to provide sustances and secturity for herself and her family in the rural region where she resides. Left without an official employment, Francisca tries to make a living by selling toasted beans on one of Cusco´s central sidewalks, accompanied by her daughter, the young Beatriz, who became paraplegic at the tender age of 6 as a result of medical negligence. Mother and daughter hope to gather enough funds to return to Combabat, their home town, and to buy the medicine necessary to help little Beatriz´s body heal. In addition, Francisca expressed that she cannot return unless she has enough money to pay for her son´s coffin as she is currently in debt with the architect. Her green shawl wrapped tightly around her, her eyes the color of brown earth, Francisca rises to leave, adding that she has to keep looking ahead, that her life is diffcult and challenging but that the only option she has is to keep fighting.

Ivonne Maribel Acurio: Hard working and fighting for what she believes in, Ivonne describes herself as an enterprising and jovial womyn. As if by magic, Ivonne, finds enough time to have clients in her office as she is a practicing psychologist, to teach Spanish courses in an institute, and to be a mother and wife with all the demands that the domestic realm produces. She is also the director of a health magazine which gets published on a monthly basis. She shared with us her experiences of being a student at the University, of her past, her family, her journeys, her professional aspirations and the beautiful memories of her childhood plays in Cusco. With a contagious smile, Ivonne opened the doors of her past in order to tell us what she has constructed and dreamed for her present.

We are en route to the frontier city of Puno in which the famous Lake Titicaca seperates Peru from Bolivia. FYI it is the biggest lake in South America and the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,800 meters above sea level.

P.S: Vocabulary: Trome (great, cool, awesome) is another word to add to our vocabulary!

P.S.S: Gift: Malinche bought some of Cusco´s colorful raimbow flags and said she would send one to anyone who tells her that they had a vasectomy!

AND VISIT OUR NEW ALBUMS OF CUSCO:

Click Here: Womyn in Cusco:

Click Here: Cusco in Black and White